Best Men’s Suits 2021: The 6 Most Essential Next-Generation Brands
To satisfy their OGs, Doppiaa, which they launched in 2015, adopts some classic Italian sartorial principles. Their clothes are refined and have a good sense of proportion. They are made from some of the finest fabrics available. And perhaps most importantly, 100 percent of manufacturing takes place in Italy, which is no easy task in today’s globalized world.
Beyond that, Fracassi and Carreras don’t remember much of their parents’ generation. In fact, Doppiaa (which, in a nod to the founders’ first names, means’ double a ‘in Italian) is perhaps the only Milanese menswear brand that doesn’t hesitate to style crossover checked blazers with hoodies. These blazers are designed to fit a modern lifestyle perfectly: Soft and unlined, a Doppiaa jacket, available immediately from SSENSE, moves with the wearer and won’t complain if you have to toss it in a tote. . bag.
“We do single breasted suits, of course, but the double breasted is our favorite,” Carreras explains. “It’s a little sportier, more relaxed. It’s not that square. The idea is to give the wearer the ultimate freedom to style their suit as they see fit, a simple idea with almost universal appeal: the brand’s customers are aged 20 and over to their seventies. (Turns out their parents approve.) “The same costume, you can wear it in different scenarios depending on how you combine it,” says Carreras. “You can wear it with a polo shirt, you can wear it with a knit or with a shirt, or even” – gasp! – “with a tie.
New York City
On a recent visit to the headquarters of couture brand J. Mueser, I found something I hadn’t expected: a watermelon-flavored sartorial explosion. There I was greeted by 26-year-old Mueser employee Chase Winfrey, who wore a bright green silk matka blazer and electric pink linen pants. He looked garish, like a Masters winner rummaging through a wealthy grandmother’s boudoir.
I liked it. The set of Winfrey reminded me of the opulence and fluidity of a Gucci collection. While the drape of his jacket and the cut of his pants screamed tradition, the overall look radiated a radical attitude that seemed brand new. And Mueser’s job took off with a generation fluent in hard personal style, as evidenced by Winfrey and her friends, who can often be seen running at night in tuxedos and cowboy boots, dealing with the New York dive bars like Studio 54.
Jake Mueser founded his brand in 2008 and has since established what might be NYC’s closest thing to a signature couture style. His costumes are a “melting pot”, as he calls it, of influences: there is the natural American shoulder, the English ticket pocket, the generous Italian lapel. Custom suits start at $ 2,450 and take five weeks to make in a small workshop in Naples. “We’re, I think, exceptionally good at the nerdy side of sewing,” says Mueser.
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