Burberry returns to London with Riccardo Tisci’s “Most Burberry” collection


“Britishness is an attitude,” says Burberry creative director Riccardo Tisci. We’re seated in a teal-blue room in Westminster’s Methodist Central Hall, where the designer’s AW/22 show has just wrapped up and he’s rushing between interviews. “It’s a collection of emotional images put together in a very bold way.” Tisci himself appears emotionless, calm. He’s wearing all black, the only nod to the brand he runs a weathered Prorsum logo (reinvented for this season) leaping across his shirt.

The collection we’re here to discuss – Burberry’s first physical show since the pandemic began – was staged as a multi-sensory spectacle in the lavish main hall of the neo-baroque building designed by the Rickards, just steps from the headquarters of the Horseferry House brand.

“We were supposed to show during fashion week last month,” Tisci tells me in quick, smooth Italianate English, “because Burberry represents the culture of England so much. But then, between Covid and all the related issues – and all the big changes at Burberry with the departure of our CEO Marco Gobbetti – we chose to show in London but on our own schedule, and that was very special.

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The first half of Tisci’s unisex offering was entirely dedicated to menswear. Models zigzagged out from behind a giant pipe organ and down into crowds of editors and celebrities for a series of 40 looks. Before the show began, members of the crowd, dressed in black, beige and red Burberry (the brand dressed nearly half of the guests) had positioned themselves around a series of tables, immaculately furnished with crockery bearing the image of Burberry.

Jacob Elordi watched from his densely populated table in the middle of the space as models walked towards him from the front of the room, while Adam Driver frowned to the side as the pendulum swung to clothes for women for the second half of the show. Unlike the male models who came before them, the women deviated from the pre-established path through the crowd, opting instead to walk on the tables, pausing briefly in the middle to pose for the cameras as an orchestra played on both sides. of the room.

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