Chanel, Dior and Valentino take back the Couture show
Since the devastating effects of the pandemic, the fashion industry has responded responsibly, avoiding the fashion calendar, going for virtual presentations, or hibernating altogether (only to surprise us with an IRL show). But as the world reopens, so do the trails. Couture Fall / Winter 2021 marks the first comeback of fashion week as a whole, with brands, editors and influencers flocking to Paris to take it all in, in person. (Follow the dramatic music.) This comeback is both opulent and upbeat, preparing us for the real life events to come. So far, designers have ticked all the boxes haute couture is known for: luxurious textiles, hand-woven details, extravagant locations, and wedding dresses with built-in disco balls.
Click ahead to check out ELLE’s favorite looks from Dior, Chanel, Valentino and more, and be sure to come back as we update our gallery during Couture Week.
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For creative director Pierpaolo Piccolo, sewing is a group effort. Creating a community of artists, the Valentino couture collection titled Valentino Des Ateliers was a dialogue between Piccolo and painters whose work was imprinted on clothing. In a true art form, the collection had a curator in Gianluigi Ricuperati who said: “We have to imagine Valentino Des Ateliers as a concert for two distinct worlds – painting and Haute Couture, contemporary art and art. sartorial – in which each other’s voices listen to the other’s song before speaking. ”The impassioned presentation was accompanied by an equally moving performance by artist Cosima, singing Sade’s“ By Your Side ”at sunset. Venetian sun.
Since closing her couture line 50 years ago, Balenciaga, led by creative director Demna Gvasalia, has brought her back. “The relaunch of a couture line will offer the highest level of creative and qualitative product to our client, and will complement my vision on several levels for the Balenciaga brand, which ranges from streetwear to conceptual fashion and wardrobe. and ultimately in unique, bespoke couture pieces, “Gvasalia said in the atelier’s collection notes. What we see are delicate nods to Cristobal Balenciaga’s legacy in the form of voluptuous dresses and futuristic headwear, married with Gvasalia’s modern take on denim-as-couture. Oh, and Ella Emhoff starred in the lookbook. Need I say more?
“Rome is a fascinating city because it has so many pasts – and I was drawn to Pasolini because I have always been inspired by his view of the world,” Kim Jones says of the late Roman poet and filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini. “He’s sort of a stranger in Roman history, but whose voice remains constant. The artist’s fictionalized version of Rome became the focal point of Jones’ couture collection for Fendi, featured in a video directed by Luca Guadagnino (of Call me by your name Fame).
You can count on Daniel Roseberry from Schiaparelli to bring opulence to couture. Known for his quirky hand with Gaga and avant-garde favorite clothes, the end result is always accompanied by an exciting side. The golden breastplates are contrasted by outrageous accessories, the sleeves are puffed up with hand-embroidered rosettes, and the closing wedding dress comes with a built-in disco ball.
Held at the Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris, Virginie Viard de Chanel was inspired by Impressionism, seen through the lens of vibrant tweed, dresses embroidered with water lilies and sequins imitating features of painting. In pure couture, the parade ended with a wedding dress. The Chanel twist? Margarat Qualley throwing her bouquet to the crowd.
The couture brand Dior has made craftsmanship its main priority. Weaving and embroidery take precedence for Maria Grazia Chirui, seen in her collection as both tweed ensembles and delicately woven dresses. She continued the thread of Greek dresses from her previous collections, now reworked in shades of slate and marbled brown.
Olivier Theyskens’ vision of couture is refined compared to the ball gowns we are used to associating with the season. Instead, her collection is an intimate night of dress up, while still retaining all the attention to detail we expect from tailor-made. Beaded embroidered micro-dresses, crystal beading accentuate the body and snake outside the edges of the costume, and a surprise of an iridescent dress interrupts the runway.
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