Harunobumurata RTW Fall 2022

Before launching his label in 2019, Harunobu Murata honed his skills at Jil Sander, and his inaugural show during Tokyo Fashion Week hinted at the German brand’s minimalist tendencies. Murata created a conservative collection of long dresses, baggy pants and oversized shirts in neutral shades of beige, black, brown and navy, with a few dusty periwinkle pieces mixed in for contrast. Men’s fashion influences came in the form of tuxedo shirts, workwear-influenced ensembles and relaxed pantsuits, while dresses were ankle length and often puffed out at the chest or hips. There were also ponchos, including a striking, voluminous one with gathers on one side of the asymmetrical hem and long fringe on the other. Murata accessorized with low, beanie-like hats that looked like a fancier version of something from “The Handmaid’s Tale.” Murata emphasized drape, fit and texture, employing many sumptuous textiles, from delicate lace to soft wool. He made his sleeves extra long and added armholes to coats so they could be worn like ponchos. Although lacking in detail and sometimes biased towards the basics, it was a cohesive collection made from beautiful fabrics and showed potential for Murata as a designer.

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