These days, if you’re not a pogonophile yourself, there’s a good chance you know someone who is. (We’ll wait here while you google it.)
Brush off the claims that peak beard has been and is gone, the facial hair trend is here to stay. And as beards have become an integral part of men’s facial furniture, the emphasis is on “how” and not “if” you should grow yours.
In the same way that not all hairstyles will suit you, beards are not universal. So here, with the help of the best hair salons in London, brush up on your knowledge and reduce any chance of choosing an unflattering style.
What face shape am I?
Knowing your face shape is important to making all future grooming decisions. How you determine this is simple. First, arm yourself with a flexible tape measure. Then take the following measurements, recording them as you go.
- Forehead: Measure across your face from the top of an arch of eyebrow to the top of the opposite arch.
- Cheekbones: Measure across your cheekbones, starting and ending at the sharpest part under the outer corner of each eye.
- Jawline: Measure from the tip of your chin below your ear to the point where your jaw tilts upward. Multiply that number by two to get your jaw measurement.
- Face Length: Measure from the center of your hairline to the tip of your chin.
Once you’ve taken these measurements, note which one is the largest of the four, then compare it to the top seven profiles to find out where your face is.
- Oval: The length of the face is greater than the width of the cheekbones, and the forehead is larger than the jaw. The angle of the jaw is rounded rather than sharp.
- Rectangle: The length of the face is the largest measurement. The forehead, cheekbones and jawline are similar in size.
- Triangular: The jawline measures longer than the cheekbones, which measure larger than the forehead.
- Round: Cheekbones and face length have a similar measurement. They are larger than the forehead and jaw, which are also of a similar measurement. The jaw angle is soft and much less defined.
- Heart: The forehead is longer than the cheekbones and jawline. The chin is pointed.
- Square: All the measurements are quite similar. The angle of the jaw is sharp rather than rounded.
- Diamond: Face length measures greatest. Next, in descending order: the cheekbones, the forehead and the smallest is the jawbone. The chin is pointed.
How to choose the right beard for your face shape
Which beard is suitable for an oval face?
If this sounds like you, try not to sound too smug as you read on. With an oval face, you can get away with a variety of beard styles that other men can’t. This versatility comes from owning square and round features, which means you don’t really need to balance anything. All you need to focus on is keeping your beard looking its best.
Rather than using this as an opportunity to change your style as often as Paul Pogba changes his hair, go for a classic and timeless style that all other face shapes wish to promote.
“The beard you want is square at the jawline, with clean lines on the cheeks, short on the sides and cut underneath,” says Joe Mills of Joe & Co Barbers in Soho. This look combines the weight of a full beard with the definition that a hipster stubble too often lacks.
Which beard is suitable for a rectangular face?
There is no need for the long face. Especially when you consider that a rectangular face shape allows you to be cautious and see exactly what your facial follicles can achieve (as long as it suits your hairstyle as well).
“A rectangle is a longer face shape. Therefore, having a beard that is long, triangular or pointed at your chin will not do you a favor, ”says Lilybelle Louis of Pall Mall Barbers in Bishopsgate. “Having fuller cheeks on a beard will give the impression of a slightly wider jawline, ensuring that attention is completely away from the length of the face.”
You don’t want to overdo the shape you already have. So give it some width and, if you can, grow the facial hair higher on the cheeks. This will prevent your face from looking too elongated.
Which beard is suitable for a triangular face?
With a triangular face, which is essentially the opposite of a “heart” shape, the goal is to distract from a more prominent chin.
The easiest way to do this is to use a “beard” (a mustache with a short beard or stubble). Once the preserve of the strong men of the Victorian era, now a really cool look that will draw attention higher up the face.
With this hybrid style, avoid anything that is too full and thick on the cheeks, which will give the unwanted impression of an even wider jawline. “Keeping the hairs on the cheeks allows you to bring well-established sideburns lower on your face,” advises Mills. “I would hate to go too long on the chin. Instead, place it at the bottom. “
Which beard is suitable for a round face?
Beard grooming should never be overlooked, regardless of your face shape. However, cultivating a large, unkempt beard in this case will only serve to turn your head into a bowling ball. So to combat this you have to work the angles.
“A rounded face shape benefits from a triangular style,” advises Louis. “Go for a beard shorter on the cheeks and longer towards the chin for a really flattering look.”
For example, a goatee – always with stubble on the cheeks – will create the impression of a longer, more pronounced chin. Thoughtfully stroking this style in meetings is the norm.
Which beard is suitable for a face with a heart?
No man ever wants to be accused of having a weak chin. Luckily for those with a heart-shaped face, there is a way to add weight with a beard.
That said, don’t invest in beard oil, combs and trimmers just yet. “It’s a smaller face shape, so a beard will only make your face look smaller,” warns Louis. So the risk is to grow a beard and become, well, just a beard.
Instead, go for designer stubble on the sides that will give you a rough look without overloading your natural bone structure. Meanwhile, leave more chin and mustache length to add depth and volume to your jawline.
Which beard is suitable for a square face?
While a strong, boxy jawline is something many men would gladly swap out their patchy beards for, it does have its limits when they choose to extend a five-hour shadow into something more serious.
You don’t want a beard that’s going to overdo what you already have and turn you into Johnny Bravo. “A square beard with crisp lines and right angles won’t look flattering with a wide jawline,” Louis says. “To complete this face shape, you need to make sure that the chin area is rounded or triangular.”
Lengthening the chin with a goatee-style beard helps soften thick and wide jaws, while creating a chiseled look. This will also focus the eye on other features of the face, giving those brilliant blues a chance to shine.
What beard is suitable for a diamond face?
The diamond face shape is widest at the cheekbones, with a narrow forehead and jawline that are roughly symmetrical in width. Therefore, the goal should always be to keep the hair on the chin to compensate for the cheekbones, so put the razor down. Ideally, you want to square a prominent chin, to create the illusion of having a more balanced bone structure.
“Pay attention to the length of your beard, too,” says Mills. “I wouldn’t recommend going too long on the chin – anything that’s too pointy tends to accentuate that face shape. However, you can go wider on the cheeks and wider on the edge of the jaw, so that it fits the lower half of your face. “
Lightening the mustache, meanwhile, will put more emphasis on your cheeks and jawline.
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