Jeff Goldblum, Kyle MacLachlan Prada Menswear Runway Bookends
Jeff Goldblum breathed some levity into Milan Fashion Week on Sunday as he walked the Prada catwalk in a dark overcoat that cut a dramatic silhouette.
The latest menswear collection from the two-year collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as co-creative directors was both elemental and festive, featuring elevated takes on everyday pieces.
“We were thinking about meaningful fashion, pieces that have meaning,” Prada said in the show notes. “Clothes that make people feel important, and are therefore, in themselves, important, not something to throw away.”
Kyle MacLachlan and Goldblum respectively opened and closed the parade which featured eight other actors, chosen by the creators to represent “real men, recognized figures”, highlighting reality.
Both wore long overcoats. Goldblum’s was set off dramatically with fur trim, while MacLachlan’s contrasted with shimmering light blue pants and shirt. Closing the show, Goldblum hilariously emerged from a purple-lit tunnel, as if surprised to find himself on a track, then happily flew off.
Guests in the Fondazione Prada exhibition space were seated in well-spaced velvet-covered theater seats.
Outerwear and workwear formed the backbone of the collection, robust and durable pieces. Statement pieces like long overcoats were cut from technical mohair, thick along the hem and ringing the upper arms. Sometimes the shoulders were accentuated and a belt tightened at the waist for maximum shape.
Designers continued their exploration of the uniform as the world returns to the office amid the coronavirus pandemic, delivering sleek, lightweight and almost shapeless jumpsuits in technical silk, leather and cotton.
“They replace the traditional, historic shirt/tie/bow tie, and give it a new energy and reality, a more youthful attitude as well,” Simons said.
The designers also gave the collection pops of color, in orange, yellow and more icy hues. The looks were finished with color-matched gloves. Trendy earrings were in the shape of robots or the new triangular Prada logo. The bags included futuristic triangular shapes or double cylinder backpacks.
As the pandemic still rages on, fashion designers have different, if not opposing, views on the current moment: whether we are coming out of the dark and heading into the light – or that it’s time to fold.
Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor has embraced the former view, in a collection that unites masculine shapes with psychedelic designs with the underlying message that mind trumps matter.
“I really want to push the power of the mind through this collection,” Kapoor said. “That’s what I want, to spread the love across the brand.”
“Linear time is an illusion” is embroidered in a burst of pink on a bespoke overcoat, a job that takes 20-25 days. Another slogan promotes “parallel worlds”, the notion that we can be in more than one place at a time. Felt hats with thick fringe represent dreadlocks worn by yogis and considered auspicious.
By contrast, Rome-based American designer Justin Gall’s first Milan collection expressed the need to protect, to hunker down and wait.
Looks could outfit squads of survivors caught in a dystopia, with a mix of padded jackets, vests and pants, layered or alternated with faux fur elements. Hoods were pulled tight over dark sunglasses, and pants alternated between tough leather with utility pockets and lightweight parachute pants.
“One of my motivations is survival. That’s what we’re trying to do now,” Gall said backstage.
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