Milanese designers hit the reset button during digital fashion week
Fashion is off the hamster wheel, taking a deep breath that allows a certain coolness to seep into the once relentless cycle.
“It’s so weird to think about fashion, the kind of fashion hamster wheel, and how we never had a break and always complained about it,” Marc Jacobs said at the event. ‘a Milan Fashion Week video chat with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons after. digital show. “And then you have a break, and you complain.”
Instead, he said, he took the time to look at others and be inspired.
Milan Fashion Week, mainly devoted to women’s fashion, for next fall and winter, closed an almost entirely digital edition on Monday. Only one designer – Daniel Del Core, marking the debut of his brand – hosted a live parade for a small number of guests.
While the hustle and bustle of the live shows with the parade of traveling fashionistas decamping from New York to London, Milan and finally Paris was missed, designers were also spurred on by the slower pace of the era’s fashion cycle. of the pandemic.
Austrian designer Arthur Arbesser reduced his collection to just 25 looks, which he showcased during visits to his Milan studio and video calls, opting for a digital runway show.
For the creations, he recycled textiles from previous collections that had been hidden in a studio box. The designer revitalized them either by printing a new design on the other side, in the case of a pretty pleated skirt, or by printing on the original with a different pattern, in the case of a black architectural detail on a striped cotton.
Arbesser said the calm imposed by restrictions in the COVID-19 era, along with the need to save money, has pushed other creative forces to the fore. He and his team created a patchwork mini dress in cotton, silk and technical nylon, and they experimented with Shibori’s hand-dyeing for a woolen mini skirt.
The collection carries Arbesser’s love for prints, this season is inspired by a real painter’s palette he picked up at a flea market, which he mixes with geometric patterns and materials ranging from soft silk jersey to wool through knits.
“I felt it was important to keep writing this story, my little story, to keep adding chapters,” Arbesser said of his 8-year-old brand. “I’m happy that even doing something so small, so little, while producing quality, you can still be seen, you can actually sell your production.”
Global masters Dolce & Gabbana have taken a technological leap forward with a youth-inspired and unrestrained collection, featuring technical textiles in bold hues interspersed with hologram finishes, metallic sequins and even multicolored polystyrene beads, for a feast of colorful confectionery.
The 140 looks included reinterpretations of iconic pieces by Domenico Dolce and Stefan Gabbana – including Madonna’s jeweled bodysuit and corsets worn by the dancers in Prince’s “ Cream ” video – from the early days Dolce & Gabbana helped define the bold sexiness of the 1990s.
The result has been a mix of Dolce & Gabbana brand tailoring, often under strands of layered pearls and gold, alongside more futuristic elements that stand in the way of our new protective bearing: elaborate goggles, plastic sneaker covers and transparent slickers. Highlighting this leap forward, a humanoid robot developed by the Italian Institute of Technology acted as the master of ceremonies for the digital parade.
“The collection is a tribute to this generation that questions us about the 1990s,” Dolce said during an in-person presentation of the designers’ showroom looks.
The designers said that the idea of the younger generation’s sexy is much more free from preconceived notions than in the past, which means that men can wear lacy t-shirts without a second thought.
“It has nothing to do with sexuality,” Gabbana said. “It’s almost an understatement; it’s about having fun.
Giorgio Armani has staged separate digital collections for men and women in his own theater, both around a replica of a gorilla statue nicknamed Uri that has been part of his personal decoration for decades. This green version of Uri evoked the designer’s support for wildlife preservation, but also echoed the collections’ connections to the natural world. Prints and designs that can be interpreted as leaves, water lilies or simple sea creatures, provided the motif for elegantly casual looks.
The fashion world has also paid tribute to creative colleagues in the theater, who have been mostly empty in Italy since the start of the pandemic.
Pierpaolo Piccioli staged the Valentino Fall / Winter 2020/21 collection live on empty seats in Milan’s Piccolo Theater, while singer Cosima hauntingly sang the words of Sinead O’Conner: ‘It’s been so lonely without you here. “
The Valentino collection was a dark affair, suited to the moment. It featured tailor-made jackets pieced together into capes, layered over white pointed-collared shirts, tight-fitting tops with seemingly hand-cut holes. For women, there was movement in the frilly miniskirts peeking out of the jacket hems, while feminine florals like the frills on the shirts were employed with discipline. Accessories included studded bags and boots.
Milanese designer Francesca Liberatore had planned an extravagant performance in a Milanese theater with holographic effects, but decided not to do so in solidarity with the theater makers who cannot occupy this space.
“I had the moral problem. How could I do a show in a theater when the artists themselves cannot recite in this place? Liberatore said by phone.
Instead, its virtual show featured an actor on an empty stage and two-dimensional models, like paper dolls, in creations featuring reimagined trenches in camouflage, depicting the state of siege in which the company lives in. the pandemic.
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