Paul Andrew Fall ’22 Relaunch Collection at Paris Fashion Week – Footwear News
How to approach the relaunch of a luxury brand? Paul Andrew, who returns to the front of the stage with his eponymous collection after a three-year hiatus, is starting from scratch.
“There are [very little here] it reminds of the past,” said the designer, who left his post as creative director of Ferragamo last May and used the break to chart a new course.
“It was an amazing time away from the distractions of everyday life, and it got me thinking about what I wanted to do next,” Andrew told Paris Fashion Week today. “I missed my freedom and I’m excited to do my own thing again.”
Andrew, who funds the business himself, returns with a smaller, more tightly edited collection aimed at a more fashion-forward, younger woman than he once catered to.
For the designer, the thought process behind the collection is tied to his childhood experience watching his parents at work. “My father was the Queen’s upholsterer at Windsor. It was all about craftsmanship, tradition, handcrafting and all those amazing tools,” he recalls. “Back then, my mom was in tech and it was completely different. It was about innovation, thinking outside the box, what the future looks like. It’s the culmination of those two things together.
Andrew’s sculptural heels were inspired by working by Jean Arp and Constantin Brâncusi. Some are fashioned in chrome, thanks to the designer’s partnership with an Italian sports car factory. Others are adorned with hand-applied beads, rhinestones and bugle beads.
Plexiglas wedges have uppers in bouclé upholstery, while other models are in glitter-injected patent leather. The designer also introduced a special embellishment – coral and turquoise gemstone studs.
While the collection of heavy heels fits with the return to dressier and glitzier styles, nothing in Andrew’s collection goes over 95 millimeters. “I’m all about empowerment and not crippling people,” he joked.
While a number of major retailers are already eager to stock the new collection, Andrew – who is also relaunching his website – is determined to do things his way.
“I want to grow the business slowly and intentionally, and build quality relationships with people,” that’s good. [fewer styles] I had in the past – less but better,” he said.
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