Riccardo Tisci meets at Burberry

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Wednesday afternoon, a few hours after the launch of his Burberry spring 2022 men’s clothing collection on Instagram, Riccardo Tisci perched in a tent room, the sun entering through the windows and the blue sky framing him like a angel at the center of the Renaissance fresco. He was beaming, talkative, and overcome with emotion. “Of course every show is moving,” he said, “but sometimes there’s one that has magic. And this one had magic. Very strong magic.

Burberry’s heritage is so iconic that it can be almost oppressive: the trench coat, the plaid, the rain. Tisci’s early collections at the brand, which he joined as Creative Director in 2018, were sprawling, if not overwhelming. “It was like looking at myself,” he said, “trying to find myself.” But from his Fall 2021 collection, and more deeply, with the one presented on Wednesday, he seems to have found his way. These clothes are extraordinarily Riccardo. “I started to feel a lot more about what I wanted to do,” he said of last year.

Part of this was evident in his formal inventions for this collection. He’s been thinking for a long time, he says, about how Burberry truly is a winter brand, known for its outerwear and clothing suitable for the English climate. (Hence the trench coat.) This presents an obvious challenge for hot-weather models, one that Tisci has seemed to take up this season. Here he worked with a number of wobbly shapes – “very cartoonish,” he explained – turning one of those illustrations into a buckled harness top. “I want to make it sexy,” he recalls thinking, “because in the summer everyone wants to be sexy, wants to be naked.” Another notable (and sexy!) Novelty: oversized flap cargo pants, a fitted square neck sleeveless shirt with sheer panel pants and trench coats transformed into sleeveless leather jackets. Me-yeah, boyfriend!

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Courtesy of Burberry.
Courtesy of Burberry.

As Tisci aptly puts it, a “half-naked human is much closer to nature.” He said that while he always enjoys the attention of celebrities and the magazine press, his greatest pride is seeing people wearing his clothes on the streets. “So I’m really waiting to see all these boys wearing these pieces!” »- in particular this backless bib.

“It just got a lot sexier, a lot more summery,” Tisci said of her Burberry. But it has also become beefier, less rigid and more portable. It’s aggressive and vicious, in a way that will appeal to fans who have been in Tisci’s pocket since his years at Givenchy, but which will also appeal to those who see and appreciate all that is surly, chaotic and sardonic in the culture. British.

Courtesy of Burberry.
Courtesy of Burberry.

The video was also a personal highlight for Tisci. “I want to have a dream that’s a rave of freedom,” he says. “Burberry freedom, for everyone in the world, is celebrating life – being raw and real and being young.” The models, covered in bizarre facial and hair piercings done by top stylist Jawara, made their way through an expanse of crisp sand, then began to dance to the music of innovators psybient Shpongle, of whom Tisci is a longtime fan. (I was hoping that someone would do something really whole pork with their soundtrack that year, and it was that time.)

For the legions of Tisci-heads, who appreciate that his tenure at Givenchy foreshadowed the era of streetwear-fueled luxury, this collection will feel like a homecoming. “You can have a dream,” he said, “but a dream doesn’t come true if you don’t succeed in your dream. I’m celebrating right now. I’m very emotional, because eventually we got together with everything.

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