Undercover RTW Fall 2022



For her latest womenswear collection, Jun Takahashi presented a study in contrasts: form-fitting black dresses that showed plenty of skin mingled with wide-legged ivory trouser suits and shrunken jackets. The few items that weren’t made from solid textiles incorporated classic patterns, like a black and yellow plaid or a bright red. Occasionally the couture has dissolved: a tuxedo or trench coat on one side gives way to a fringed scarf on the other. Takahashi opened her show with a series of sexy black dresses with high slits or leg-revealing cutouts, and corset-style necklines. This is followed by understated ivory pantsuits consisting of wide-leg pants and jackets pinched at the waist. Metals were also on display, such as with a gold cropped moto jacket, which was paired with wide-leg pants with front zippers. The designer called the theme of the collection a “cold theme,” writing in his show notes that “the collection expresses the cold, rebellious fire that smolders deep within us. Calm, elegant and formal pieces are interspersed with a rebellious punk spirit and thoughts of peace. Without the sharp jewelry, some looks were reminiscent of Alber Elbaz in his heyday at Lanvin. Balloon sleeves,

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