What is Microneedling – Cost of Microneedling, Facts and FAQs


Every dermatologist we interview keeps talking about the benefits of microneedling. The minimally invasive treatment can be used all over the body, from the scalp to the ankles, to improve the appearance of scars, stimulate collagen, or promote hair growth. It is also a standard treatment for fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage, and stretch marks. He does everything.

The practice dates back to 1995, but has gained popularity in recent years thanks to new technologies, as well as YouTube and Instagram. As a result, the mesmerizing (albeit bloody) process appears in tens of thousands of videos. Here dermatologist Macrene Alexiades, MD, Ph.D., who has published extensive research on microneedling, and Yale clinical professor and dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, demystify the versatile treatment.

Microneedling creates microscopic perforations in the skin.

Simply put, microneedling involves inserting very thin, short, sterilized needles into the skin to rejuvenate it, says Macrene. When the skin feels these pinpricks, your body will naturally rush to heal them, resulting in a plump and younger appearance. The most popular (and economical) microneedling device, a dermaroller, features micro-fine needles ranging in diameter from 0.5 to 2.5 millimeters. But, if the prospect of multiple needle sticks sounds a little worrisome to you, be aware that the punctures are more like pin pricks that only penetrate deep surface level.


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You can get it in the office or do it at home.

“The advantage of having your dermatologist microneedling is that it can be done with PRP, which makes it more effective,” Gohara explains. But the downsides are that you have to allow time for processing and it can be more expensive. “If you do it at home it’s less effective, but you can do it however you like.”

Generally speaking, in-office treatments use slightly sharper needles which are safe when used by a professional. Home devices still work, but they can be made much softer to reduce the risk of injury. If you choose the micro needle at home, be sure to use clean, sterilized equipment to avoid infection.

Microneedling offers fairly immediate results.

“From the microneedling alone, you will look plump, pink and bright for a few weeks. In the short term, it plumps up the skin and makes the skin more glowing due to the inflammation and very shallow swelling,” said Alexiades. However, since the effectiveness of microneedling comes from the healing of the skin itself, some people may not see intense results until after a few sessions.

But microneedling also promises improvement over time.

According to a 2008 study, skin treated with four sessions of microneedling spaced one month apart produced up to a 400% increase in collagen and elastin six months after treatment ended.


You can overload it with a serum.

“I love using a hyaluronic acid hydrating serum with a dermaroller,” Gohara says. “I welcome the opportunity to drive hydrated. Antioxidants and niacinamide are also favorites. We also like a serum-soaked fabric mask right after a dermarolling session at home.

There have been some big breakthroughs this year.

“Radiofrequency microneedling uses additional flow needle technology to deliver radiofrequency energy into the dermis,” Gohara explains of an in-office option. “Radio frequency energy heats the dermis, causing collagen production and tissue tightening.”

Microneedling stimulates dormant hair follicles.

Stimulation of dormant hair follicles equates to new hair growth, Gohara confirms. In a recent study, 100 test subjects were divided into two groups. One set was treated with minoxidil lotion and the other received minoxidil lotion plus microneedling. After 12 weeks, 82 percent of the microneedling group reported a 50 percent improvement compared to 4.5 percent of the minoxidil-only lotion group.

Microneedling can also reduce cellulite.

Alexiades works with a new generation of microneedling devices like Candela’s Profound. She uses the machine for pancake-like fine lines as well as sagging skin and cellulite.

Your dermaroller goes well with other skin care products.

Alexiades recommends combining microneedling with topical treatments (like its 37 Extreme Actives anti-aging cream or serum) and lasers. “Often times, we take the opportunity to apply anti-aging preparations that will penetrate better through the needle sticks. When you combine with topicals, you have a chance to create collagen. When combined with radiofrequency, you can see the fabric tighten for months, ”she said.

DIY microneedling is legitimate …

Beauty Stamp micro-exfoliation tool

As long as your dermatologist approves! Gohara warns that people with eczema, rosacea, acne, keloids, and perioral dermatitis should avoid rolling at home, as it could cause breakouts or scarring. For a gentle introduction to at-home microneedling, try the Beauty Stamp from acclaimed skin care guru Nurse Jamie. The handheld tool works exactly as the name suggests, dabbing the skin with ultra-fine punctures designed to increase the effectiveness of your topical treatments and stimulate collagen (just like a traditional dermaroller). Again, it is always important to clean your microneedling tools before use, even if you are the only one using them. If in doubt, ask your dermatologist.

It is possible to OD on microneedling.

Frequent micro-needles can lead to capillary ruptures “and predispose the skin to a plastic appearance if you overdo it with repeated micro-needle slurs,” says Alexiades. Instead, limit dermaroller dependency by sticking to a monthly plan and still allowing full recovery between rolling sessions.

You need to be gentle with your skin after microneedling.

“Let the skin cool after microneedling,” Gohara says. “For the rest of the day, don’t wash your skin, expose it to high heat, sweat too much (that means no sun, no gym, no hot yoga).” Instead, stock up on skin-loving products like the ones below:

How will you know it is working?

The marks will appear less visible, the wrinkles will be finer and the quality of your skin will be healthier overall.

Microneedling alone only gives temporary results.

Dr Alexiades notes that a recent AAD study showed that microneedling alone can only give temporary results that don’t last. “As my over ten years of research has shown, you need to combine micro-needles with radio frequency to achieve long-term reductions in wrinkles and scars and improvements in skin quality,” says Alexiades.

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